The Land of the Morning Calm

I woke up to the Captain's announcement, "Good evening ladies and gentlemen. We will touchdown at Incheon International Airport in 10 minutes. The local time is 18.04 hours and the airport temperature is 5 degree Celsius. The passengers to the right of the aircraft can now see the beautiful city of Seoul by their side. The passengers to the left of the aircraft can watch their friends on the right admiring the beautiful city of Seoul..." (sound of chuckle) "... or else see the beautiful sun set on the western horizon." I looked out through the window on my left. There was the twilight sun and the vast expanse of the sea beneath, tinged with shades of yellow, orange and red, embossed with trails of ships heading out to the Pacific Ocean. It looked like a sheet of canvas colorfully adorned by the imagination of a 4 year old. Abstract yet beautiful. The put-on-seat-belts sign was already ON. I sat upright, buckled up. Shoved the Strait Times that I despised for the bad news about yuan (and other asian currencies) into the front pouch and prepared for descent. After a long day at Kualalumpur and 9 hour flight (including layover at Kota-Kinabalu), I just wanted to get into the place that would be my home for the next 2 months. The pilot performed a textbook touchdown and soon I was facing the young lady at the immigration counter.

"First time in Korea?" she asked.

"Yes."

"Purpose of Visit? ... Business or Pleasure?"

"Business." Of course! ;)

She looked at my passport and then looked at me (without either of her eyebrows raised). "Thank you and have a good time." she said handing me back the stamped passport.

I collected my baggage, converted some dollars at 52 week low exchange rate, called Bala, put on my jacket and scurried to the transport terminal muttering under my breath. Damn! the appreciating asian currencies. Had just over 4 million won which would have been 40 % more if converted an year ago. Currency futures better be applied than just mugged :|

Ulsan (destination) was still 447 km away. KTX (Korean Train eXpress), the Korean version of 'bullet trains' that we learnt about at school, at its top speed of 350 km/hr could theoretically take me to my destination in less than an hour and a half. Alas, Murphy played foul. The last KTX for the day had left at 6 pm. That leaves me with Plan B - Get the damn Express Bus ASAP.

A cold, damp gust of air flogged my face as I walked out of the airport. Pulled over another layer of woolen and waited for my ride. The airport limousine arrived shortly and the driver helped me settle down in the warmth of its interiors. It was about an hour's drive to Seoul Express Bus Terminal, where I got my ticket to Ulsan, grabbed some grub and bumped into Miss Eun-ah Chang.

Eun is a violinist. Cute like most oriental girls and graceful like her instrument. Helped me with getting the tickets (English is not that popular with the common folk) and agreed to teach me some Korean during the 4.5 hour journey to Ulsan.

"So, what brings you to Ulsan?" she initiates conversation as the bus wheels onto the freeway.

Then I start explaining to her about the internship...blah blah blah...answer her questions about India, Taj Mahal, Zubin Mehta and the Tatas. I learn that she is majoring in Violin at Korean National University of Arts, Seoul and also plays for the Ulsan Philharmonic Orchestra. I am amazed by the extent of formalization of music education in Korea. The young are formally initiated into arts and music at a very tender age. There is also a proper organized music entertainment industry that includes classical music.

"I have been learning music for only 17 years. And I started late. Joined music school only when I was 10" she says.

Yeah right... very late." I agree.

I couldn't even hold the fiddle properly when I was 10. The aching fingers and vibrato lessons had almost made me quit but for mom's persistence.

Talked over random arbit stuff over the next four hours. She taught me "Anyong ha se yo?" which means hello. And "Kham sa ham ni da" meaning thank you in Korean. I also got an invite to the philharmonic concert at Ulsan Grand Hall celebrating Schumann's 200th anniversary :)

"The proceedings would include three sessions: 1. Rhapsodie 'espana', 2. Rachimanivov: Piano Concerto and 3. Shumann: Symphony no.1 'Spring' " she explained.

"I am really looking forward to it", I said as I bid her goodbye at the terminal.

Bala came just in time to pick me up. He set the GPS to Dong-gu and sped through the empty city-lanes occasionally braking for the speed cameras that decided not to take his picture. He dropped me at my apartment and there - I was home. Home for the next 2 months :)